Rose Planting and Care

Roses are quite possibly the most recognizable plants in the world.  With their large, colorful, fragrant flowers, it is easy to see why.  There are many different types of roses, from hybrid-teas to floribundas, shrub roses to climbers, and many others.  We have several varieties of roses to choose from at Fairview Greenhouses and Garden Center, something that is sure to please any rose fan, and soon-to-be rose fan, alike! Different colors and flower forms adorn these garden beauties.  This species is so broad, the best way to understand roses is to grow them. To learn more about roses and how to make them flourish, read on...

Proper bed preparation is one of the fundamentals to growing roses.  Roses are relatively deeply rooted plants in relation to their size, so amending and planting properly is imperative for plant health.  Late fall and early winter are great seasons for preparing beds for planting.  Tilling and amending the planting area to 18”-24” will give the roots of your rose plants a great head start.  Amendments such as mushroom compost, cow manure and compost will improve aeration and drainage in planting areas, as well as add micronutrients to the soil.  Note: When planting, it is important the graft is above the soil level to keep the rootstock from sending out shoots.
           
Placement is also very important when planting roses.  At least six hours of sun is imperative for blooming and overall plant health.  Air circulation is almost as important as good drainage; it is best to keep stagnant air from hovering around rose plants.  While circulation should be considered, windy areas should be avoided to prevent the roses from being damaged.
             
There are many helpful products available to aid in growing of roses.  Bayer produces a three in one product which includes fertilizer, a fungicide, and an insecticide.  This product is poured on the root system and is taken up through the vascular system of the plant to protect the rose “from the inside”.  The fungicide helps fight against black spot and powdery mildew while the insecticide deters beetles, aphids, and thrips.  This is a great preventative product for use on all roses.  There are many other sprays and granular products available that have similar effects.     

Knockout roses have been some of the most popular plants at Fairview over the last few years.  These plants truly deserve all of the credit that they are given because of their disease resistance and flowering ability.  Last year in my landscape, the Knockout roses started to bloom in mid-April and did not stop until after Thanksgiving.  They actually continued to flower through several light frosts in the fall. 

There is no other shrub that will add as much floral color to the garden. Due to their frequent blooming, fertilizing monthly helps these plants to replenish the nutrients they need to continue blooming in copious amounts all season.  Another great feature of these plants is that no pruning or dead-heading is required.  Plus, if Knockouts get too large for their space, hard pruning in February can keep them in check. 

As for critters, many of us have problems with Japanese beetles feasting on our roses. Japanese beetles made their first appearance in my yard during the last week of May last year.  Liquid Sevin spray minimized the damage to my plants over the course of June. 
           
There are several different types of Knockout roses available.  The first series included the original Knockout, pink Knockout, and blushing Knockout.  The original Knockout flower is a rich rose-pink color, while pink and blushing Knockout sport varying shades of pink.  The second series included Double Knockout and Pink Double Knockout (pictured).  These plants both have double petal counts, making them resemble traditional rose flowers more so than the single flower varieties of the original series. 

As the Double Knockout flowers first open, they are red in color then fade to a dark rose-pink.  Pink Double Knockout is a bubble gum pink.  These five roses have proven to be very tough plants in the landscape, with incredible mildew and black spot resistance.  Sunny Knockout and Rainbow Knockout are both available, but do not seem to have the strength of the other five plants.  There are also several imposter Knockouts for sale, so it is important to make sure that a real Knockout is being purchased.
           
This barely scratches the surface of rose information.  For more specific information, feel free to ask our nursery personnel at Fairview. In the meantime, we hope you find the month-by-month rose guide listed below helpful! Enjoy!

Happy Planting!
Brad Rollins   


The following is a month-by-month guide for lovers of roses who want to know HOW they should be caring for their roses, WHAT they need to do, and WHEN to do it.

January
-A good time to prepare new beds, to have soil testing done (if not done in the fall) and to research cultivars you would like to grow this season.

-Dig the new bed to a depth of 18" - 24” ( roses are deep rooted). The addition of organic materials (soil conditioner, peat moss, compost, leaf mold) is recommended. You may also add bone meal, alfalfa pellets, and lime (based on recent soil test results). Roses prefer a slightly acidic soil.

-Apply dormant spray (lime sulfur) to the roses & the soil around them before bud break to help reduce disease & insect problems.

February
-Bareroot and boxed roses arrive in the nursery early this month. Come in to see the new introductions and to choose your favorites while the varieties are plentiful. Select number 1 or 1-1/2 grade roses.

-This is a good month to plant new roses and to prune established ones.

-Prune established roses when the buds are about 1/4" - 3/4" long. Remove all leaves. The traditional method of pruning reduces the bush to 3 - 5 large canes. Shape the bush to have a hollowed center, to allow better air circulation. The length of the cane is up to you. A severe 7" - 10" pruning is reserved for new bareroot bushes & show blooms. Never hard prune a floribunda. Moderate pruning is reducing the height to half of the original size, including the floribundas’. Light pruning is reducing the height to two-thirds of original size/ after the removal of all unwanted wood. Try to prune to an outside bud at a 45 degree angle about 1/4" above the bud. Too light or no pruning results in spindly growth and poor quality blooms.

-A newer, simpler method is to merely reduce the height of the bush by half its original size.

-Climbers, especially those that bloom on “old” wood, are normally pruned after their bloom period. After three years remove the oldest canes.

-Planting can begin as soon as the roses arrive and the ground is not frozen. Hybrid Tea Roses will require about three square feet of area, climbers more, floribundas less. Dig the hole 18" - 24" deep and as wide. Add soil amendments (50% soil, 50% amendments). Soil conditioner, peat moss, composted cow manure, compost and leaf mold are good examples of organic materials that may be added to the soil to increase soil fertility and drainage. Roses are heavy feeders and will benefit from the addition of cow manure, compost, and leaf mold. The planting site should be located so the roses receive a minimum of six hours of sun (morning sun is more important than afternoon sun). They also need good drainage, good air circulation, but not windy sites. Avoid tree roots and the drip lines of trees when establishing sites to grow roses. Roses will not thrive in poor soil or wet sites.

-It is a good idea to soak bareroot and boxed roses before planting. Remove the top of the box at the zip strip, puncture the sides and bottom of the box to help it biodegrade. Place the graft above soil level and the cardboard below soil level. Keep well watered. (Exposed cardboard will act as a wick and dry the roots).

March
-Pruning should be completed by the end of the month.

-Fertilize established plants now with a balanced fertilizer, following recommendations. (Wait to fertilize newly planted roses until after their first bloom).

-Keep area around roses weed free the entire growing season.

-It is a good idea to add a shovel or two of compost or composted cow manure to established plants now.

-Remove mulch around the bud union if used for winter protection.

-Container grown roses will be arriving in the nursery this month also.

April
-Roses will completely leaf out this month. After they have leafed out, go ahead and start a disease preventative spray program. To help prevent powdery mildew, downy mildew and black spot use Bayer’s All In One Rose and Flower Care. This product also helps to control insect problems and fertilizes at the same time. Knock Out and Flower Carpet Roses are just a couple of the more disease resistant rose varieties.

May
-Fertilize newly planted roses after their first bloom. Continue to feed all roses on a monthly basis thereafter. One time released application of time releases fertilizer pellets now will eliminate the monthly feedings.

-Water regularly, avoid wetting the foliage if possible. Watering in the mornings will allow foliage to dry before evening. (This will help prevent fungus problems).

-Japanese beetles will start appearing soon. Liquid Sevin applied in the early morning or late in the day will help preserve the bee population and eliminate the beetles.

-Continue the preventative disease spray program.

-A 2” mulch layer of pinebark will help keep the roots cool, cut down on moisture loss, and help prevent weeds.

June
-Continue to spray early in the morning to avoid leaf injury. Do not apply sprays when temperatures are above 86 degrees.

-Roses need 3 - 5 gallons of water per week.

-Dead head spent blossoms to conserve plant energy.

-When cutting newly planted roses, cut just above the second five leafed stem. Established roses may be cut lower on the stem, but removing too many leaflets reduces energy.

July
-Cut roses in the cool of the morning, putting them immediately into water. Recut stems under water to obtain optimum water uptake. A small splash of a carbonated, citrus drink (not diet) and a drop of bleach will feed and give blooms a longer life.

-Climbers that bloom annually, or bloom on old wood are best pruned after their bloom period. Remove all dead canes. Cut one-third of older canes to 24” on three year old plants. To renovate an old bush, completely remove one-third of oldest canes every year for several years.

-Keeping the rose bed free of fallen leaves and petals helps reduce black spot.

August
-Roses are beginning to prepare for fall. Stop fertilizing by the middle of the month.

-Visit local gardens to view roses you may want to consider adding to your collection.

September
-Leave finished flower heads on to enjoy the beautiful and colorful rose hips.

-Discontinue the preventative spray program at the end of this month.

October
-Tidy the rose beds by picking up the fallen leaves.

-Fall is an excellent time to begin preparing new rose beds, especially if you have soil with a high clay content.

November
-Cut “whips” to 36”. (Whips are long canes that are blown by the wind and will loosen the roots. Tying the shortened whips together also helps).

December
-Heaping pine bark mulch over the rose bush, up to 18”, will provide winter protection.

-Tying a burlap bag over the top of tree roses, and filling it with leaves will insulate the bud union and protect it from freezing.