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There are many cultivars of the venus flytrap, but here we will focus on the main varieties that are commonly found in greenhouses and garden centers throughout the United States. The venus flytrap grows from a bulb-like object and consists of a rosette of four to seven leaves, each adorned with the munching trap at the end. Longer leaves that have robust traps usually appear after the flytrap has flowered. Most flytraps will flower lovely white blooms in the spring, but many enthusiasts will remove the flowering stem early, as the flowering takes away from the plant’s energy and the rate of trap production reduces greatly. After all, we all enjoy these plants for their ability to eat small insects! The venus flytrap releases a nectar sweet smell that entices passerby insects and arachnids. Spiders, flies, caterpillars, crickets and slugs have all found themselves locked in the lurches of the venus flytrap.
The trapping mechanism of venus flytraps is tripped when lurking prey stumbles against one of three hair-like objects that can be found on the inner surface of the trap. The trapping mechanism of a venus flytrap is so specialized that it can differentiate between living prey and other stimuli such as rain. Two of these trigger hairs must be touched, in succession, or one hair touched twice for the trap to activate. Once activated, the trap will snap shut in about one-tenth of a second (though the overall health of the plant can alter this speed). Once closed, the “teeth” on the edges of the trap lock together to keep large prey from escaping. On the other hand, smaller prey (such as gnats) can escape through the small holes between the “teeth.” It is observed that the effort to digest these small creatures far outweighs any benefits. If the prey escapes, within twelve hours, the trap will open and be ready for business once again. If they prey remains in the trap and begins to move around, digestion begins rather quickly.
If the prey is unable to escape, digestion begins. Enzymes are released, which eventually dissolve the prey and, in turn, becomes a source of nutrients to help the flytrap flourish. Digestion takes about ten days from start to finish. The trap then reopens and the cycle begins once again. Flytraps can go without eating for a month or two. Though, you should never feed your plant more than once a week. Any insects fed to flytraps must be living or one that recently died without the help of pesticides, which are detrimental to the flytrap. It is also important not to feed your flytrap an insect that is more than 1/3 of the size of the size of the mouth.
Did you know? The venus flytrap is an endangered species in the wild. It’s true. The flytrap can be found in nitrogen-poor environments, such as boggy areas and wet savannahs. These slow-growing plants survive in wet, sandy and peaty soils and are native only to North and South Carolina, specifically within a sixty mile radius of Wilmington, NC. (So please don’t take any wild native plants; just purchase those in nurseries and you’ll save yourself a trip to the jailhouse!) Evidence shows that the lack of nutrition in the soil is the reason the flytrap relies on it’s trapping mechanism to thrive; insects provide the nitrogen for protein formation that the soil cannot provide. Venus flytraps go through a dormant period for three months during the winter. During this time, all foliage will die. It is important to remove the bulb and place it in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Flytraps that do not go through their dormancy period will eventually weaken and die.
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Where to grow: on a deck, windowsill, in a greenhouse, or in a garden that receives a lot of indirect light.
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Water: Stagnant water is dangerous for the overall health of the plant. Use a pebble tray to capture excess water and if the water becomes stagnant, the plant isn’t setting in it. It is best not to use tap water for watering. Rather, use sodium-free distilled water. Do not let dry out and do not over water. It is best to keep your flytrap moist, not wet, at all times. Good rule of thumb: 6” Pots - Keep at least a 1/2” of water in pebble tray at all times, more if the venus flytrap is in bright sunlight. The more light the more water can be tolerated. 4” Pots - Same as 6”, but only a 1/4” of water in the tray unless in bright sunlight. Flytraps grown indoors generally do better if you let the water in the pebble tray disappear for a day or two before refilling.
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Light: Lots of Indirect Light
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Fertilize: Do not use fertilizer
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Misc.: Do not try to force the mouth closed; let the plant do so naturally. It can cause the plant to die.
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